CITY // SUZHOU, CHINA
Min Wu is a London-based Chinese designer, and a recent graduate of the London College of Fashion. Immediately after graduation, Wu established her label, MIN WU. Min’s design aesthetic combines dip-dying techniques with the development of new materials using 3D structural details, giving her garments a fresh, elegant, and sporty feel. Her senior collection, “Schizophrenia,” shown, was inspired by the work of multidisciplinary artist Anthony McCall: particularly his “Solid Light” series. Combining that with inspiration from the modernistic “Schizo Vase” produced by Studio OOMS, Min developed a patternmaking technique that gave her the ability to incorporate 3D aspects into her clothing. The technique “splits our mind, making it see two different vases in the body of one”. The collection was chosen to show at London Fashion Week.
Photograph by Nick Turk. Designed by Ashley Austin.
CITY // ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, U.S.
DESIGNER // ASHLEY AUSTIN
Ashley Austin, currently based in New York, is a 2011 graduate of the Savannah College of Art and Design, where she had the honor to be mentored by coveted CFDA award-winning designer Chris Benz. Since graduation, Austin has also been selected to participate in Elle magazine’s Fashion Next runway competition at New York Fashion Week. Austin’s design aesthetic reflects classic men’s tailoring for womenswear, and she aims to create a line that redefines “feminine” as “powerful”. Her “Metalloid” collection, shown, was inspired by her fascination with dilapidated factories from the American Industrial Revolution. The once shiny, well-oiled machines, now decayed and rust-ridden, transform naturally as they would when exposed to the elements. A “metalloid” is described as an “in-between” element, not metal or nonmetal, making it hard to classify. Austin’s collection resembles that same in-between quality, in the transition or “in-between” of metal and cloth.
Photograph by Zohar Shitrit. Designed by Lilach Eliyahu.
CITY // TEL AVIV, ISRAEL
DESIGNER // LILACH ELIYAHU
Originally from Tel Aviv and now based in Paris, Lilach Eliyahu is a graduate of the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design in Israel. Eliyahu aims to bring small moments of joy to people’s lives through her collection. Her desire is to make the world a little more decorated and comfortable. Her design aesthetic incorporates colors and textures, along with complex textures, giving an aura of warmth and value to her garments. The inner layers hold a special place of importance in Eliyahu’s pieces, as they “convey a secret shared only between the garment and the person who wears it.” In her “Peek a Boo” collection, shown, Eliyahu garnered inspiration from childhood memories. Her family moved a lot, and the transitions left her with the feeling that she had no clear nostalgia for childhood. “Although the collection looks very colorful and sweet, when taking a closer look, one can see that it is not as sweet as it seems.” The collection demonstrates a dialogue between the child, the new woman, and her old doll.
Photograph by Iringo’ Demeter. Designed by Ming Pin Tien.
CITY // TAIPEI, TAIWAN
DESIGNER // MING PIN TIEN
Originally from Taiwan, Ming Pin Tien is a London-based London College of Fashion graduate. In 2012, he launched his womenswear label, Ming, and presented his debut collection, spring/summer 2013, with prestigious showcase The Fashion Scout. The strength of Ming’s design lies in his complex patternmaking skills, which give him the ability to translate his individual point of view to his garments and execute conceptual designs. Most of Ming’s pieces are strongly based on abstract concepts, and all are highly focused on creative pattern-cutting, which he derives from body language. He then pulls the final piece together with the balanced addition of colors and textures. His most recent collection, shown, is the first part of Ming’s personal interpretation of love; it’s inspired by a love letter from Yoko Ono to John Lennon, written 27 years after his death. Ming focused the collection around the bed, a symbol of sweetness and bitterness. He used details from pajamas, mixing them with crisp elements to give a gentle, yet sharp aesthetic. This collection represents the brand’s core aesthetic of contradiction, playing on the fine line between love and loss, life and death.
Designed by Jantine Van Peski. Photograph by Mark Groeneveld.
CITY // BREDA, THE NETHERLANDS
DESIGNER // JANTINE VAN PESKI
Jantine van Peski, a 2011 graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, studied at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. In her most recent collection, “Louise,” shown, van Peski focused on the technique of macramé, experimenting with knotted and sculptural shapes around the body. Van Peski gained design experience after university at the fashion houses of Haider Ackerman and A.F. Vandervorst, and has since worked on various projects where she is able to focus on craftsmanship and develop her attention to materials and techniques. She continues to develop her craft by collaborating intensively with world-renowned design duo Studio Job.
The history of the necktie is as rich and colorful as the patterns that adorn them. Designers, actors and royalty in the 1920s and 1930s left a distinctive stamp on the tie that gives the modern man the opportunity