CITY // LONDON, ENGLAND
DESIGNER // BEATRICE KORLEKIE NEWMAN
Beatrice Korlekie Newman, or KORLEKIE, is a womenswear and knitwear designer whose collections stand for alluring elegance and refined gothic glamour with a strong influence on traditional crafts. The brand’s signature look consists of heavy embellishment, beading, and intricate handwork that is inspired by her Afro-British culture. The entire collection is inspired by the beautiful beading and embroidery of African clothes and lace fabrics. The KORLEKIE collections rely on a mix of various luxurious yarns in diffusible textures to create elegant and contemporary fashion pieces. Many of the outfits in the collections are hand woven and specially crafted by trained artisans in the United Kingdom, Italy, and Bolivia.
The entire collection explores the meaning behind the melancholic beauty of Shakespeare’s character Ophelia from Hamlet. The designer incorporates Ophelia’s story into the clothing as a foundation for creating delicate, womanly shapes that still somewhat hold true to the gothic nature of the KORLEKIE brand. Silhouettes are simple with particular focus on the waist, neck and décolletage with shell-like motifs and patterns as well as flowers that creep up from the beyond in textures of smooth, glossy and lacy fabrics that are mermaid-like and ethereal. New techniques such as cross-stitched jackets in glorious glittering hues add flavor to tailored structures.
CITY // NICOSIA, CYPRUS
DESIGNER // TRYFONAS MODESTOU
The theme of designer Tryfonas Modestou’s research stretches back to the appropriation ofporn-chic in mainstream media. The main concept is femininity and its sexual representation in contemporary cultures. He focused his study on feminine representations and symbolism of female sexuality in the past. His self-proclaimed muse is a powerful, yet elegant and sensitive, woman. Her delicate side is only visible to few and hard to understand.
The most recent collection, “Endangered Species”, plays with the notion of memorabilia, femininity, and romanticism. Memorabilia brings back elements that are lost, dressing women to promote beauty and power in a respectable way. The inspiration behind this collection is fragile and vulnerable femininity—a collection that flatters and protects the wearer.
CITY // GOUDA, THE NETHERLANDS
DESIGNER // HELLEN VAN REES
Hellen van Rees is a Dutch fashion and textile designer who graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London in February 2012 with a degree in MA Fashion. Before that, she finished the BA Fashion design at ArtEZ Institute for the Arts in Arnhem, The Netherlands. Van Rees’ collections feature a signature handmade tweed-like fabric inspired by the classic Chanel tweeds. Her handmade fabrics are unique in their design and manufacturing process. A constant search for contrasts and textures keeps the work fresh and innovative. Most materials are made sustainably by using production leftovers and/or organic textiles.
Van Rees has taken inspiration from the U.S. drama Boardwalk Empire, which takes place during the prohibition period of the 1920s. The collection features a number of 1920s inspired silhouettes, which have been captivatingly manipulated on a range of long evening gowns and ready-to-wear separates. By combining vibrant colors under heavy blacks and whites, van Rees integrates elements of distinct mirrored effects. Further highlighting van Rees’ desire to shock viewers is her ability to mix harsh geometric shapes which beautifully echoes the organic contoured weavings.
CITY // MøN, DENMARK
DESIGNER // LAURA BARUËL
The work of Laura Baruël focuses on the relationship between modern man and nature. She works as a scientist in an undefined area between design, craft, set design and art. The result is experimental fashion design ranging from one-off exhibition pieces to ready-to-wear dresses and textile designs with a unique quality as well as costumes for film and theater.
The idea behind her Spring Season ’14 collection, “Flora,”is to evolve a visual language and a series of patterns that originate from the Nordic flora and characteristics of the Nordic landscape. The goal has been to capture the Genius Loci of the Nordic—the spirit of the place. The prints are made from imprints of plants that she has collected mainly in the woodlands of the Fiskars in Finland.
CITY // BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
DESIGNER // DORI TOMCSANYI
Dori Tomcsanyi is a high-profiled, contemporary women’s design & fashion concept, established by the Hungarian designer Dori Tomcsanyi. Started in 2010, Tomcsanyi creates uniqueness that comes from her personal perception and interpretation of exceptional, yet one of a kind, places and persons. This uniqueness is implemented on high quality, natural fabric. The minimal silhouettes, clean lines and, many times, “oversized” looks describe Dori Tomcsanyi. Each collection revolves around a chosen female character: the cheeky, laid-back, urban girl.
“Panel” is a word in Hungarian that describes not only the huge uniformed residential buildings of the 1970s and ’80s, but also refers to the very individual aesthetics of a lifestyle. Remaking the typical elements of the „Panel” lifestyle started as a funny idea for the designer, Dori Tomcsanyi. She was inspired by very authentic details from her grandparents’ wardrobes and the interior design of their house. Her grandparents happened to live in a „Panel” building ever since Tomcsanyi remembers. She used details from her grandmothers tablecloths, her grandfathers car bag complete with a fox tail key ring, and the big, indoor plants from the tiny living room, and styled them with signature pieces from previous collections of hers. The result is a very bright mix of youthful and fresh colors and modern silhouettes, combined with slight references of recycled patterns and shapes of the „Panel” theme.
The history of the necktie is as rich and colorful as the patterns that adorn them. Designers, actors and royalty in the 1920s and 1930s left a distinctive stamp on the tie that gives the modern man the opportunity